En la vida el surfista espera con ansias ciertos momentos y en especial momentos con las olas. Hay points y playas que funcionan en ciertas estaciones del año con mas constancia y perfección. Cada surfista busca su momento en la ola, y la recompensa máxima es el tubo.Esa maniobra que siempre quistes realizar y que hoy fue su momento. A veces llegas a último momento y puede ser el indicado por que la marea estaba baja y con mas constancia, llegaste y era tu momento, con los barriles de agua esperando para envolverte uno tras otro y que puedas decir o exclamar!!!!!!!Busque y encontré mi tubo!!!!!!!.
Texto/pacheco
Fotos/Pavez
foto portada/Gobbin
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